<July 27, 2005>

Rivet Rudder Skins - Begin Rudder Skeleton

Tonight riveted the rudder stiffeners to the rudder skins. This was pretty easy, and I will agree with what someone said on one the RV related email lists... "Back-riveting is so easy, a trained monkey could do it."

After riveting the skins I started the skeleton, but had to stop because the instructions say to enlarge a hole to 3/8", but I don't have a 3/8" drill bit. I will buy/borrow one tomorrow and pick up here.

Update: Duh! I had a unibit I could have used... didn't think of that!

The first stiffener riveted. As usual, I used the operating pressure chart on Dan Checkoway's site to set up my rivet gun, which for the 426AN3-3 rivets was around 34 psi.

Pretty easy stuff... it took no time at all to get this done. I didn't sink the back-riveting plate into the table, I just put some carpet next to it so that the skins sat more or less level with the top of the plate.

One down, one to go.

I then moved onto the rudder skeleton. Here is the R-917 Shim the plans tell you how to construct. I drilled only the center one for now, but drew a line where the others would be (1/4" from the edge)Ö read on.

Here is why I didnít drill all three holes. I clecoed the shim to the horn and used the holes in the horn as guides for drilling the other two holes. If you look closely, you can see where I lined up the line I drew on the shim with the remaining two holes.

Now it is just a matter of match drilling.

See, now all the holes line up perfectly.

I cleco'ed the R-904 Rib, R-902 Spar, R-917 Shim, and R-405PD Horn together, but I found that the top edge of the horn interfered with the web/flange bend on the rib. You can see in the picture how they did not sit flush, so to the Scotchbrite wheel I went.

I broke the top edge of the horn down using the Scotchbrite wheel and now it all fits together much better.